Tag Archives: Portugal

Day one in the Algarve, and the first spin of the wheels in Portugal. I rolled out near Silves just after eight on a clear, still morning, already around 23°C, with one big idea for the day: ride west until the land runs out at Cabo de São Vicente, the lighthouse on the south-western tip of mainland Europe, then come home the long way along the coast. The rustic countryside started straight away: dry golden hills, scrub and whitewashed villages under a deep blue sky.

Down past Silves, the road wound between vineyards to Estombar, where the church stood bright white and blue against the sky, then on down to the river at Portimão.

Over the bridge it was west through Monte Judeu and Odiáxere and onto the quiet back roads inland of Lagos: red earth verges and long empty lanes around Barão de São João, with barely a car about. My bike radar counted 157 vehicles all day, which over 165 km felt like nothing. The villages got smaller and whiter through Figueira and Raposeira to Vila do Bispo, where the road swings south for Sagres.

From Sagres it’s a straight run out to the lighthouse along the clifftops, with the Atlantic opening up ahead. I got there just after half past twelve, 78 km in, and spent half an hour taking it all in: sheer cliffs, a vast stretch of blue, and a selfie or three to prove I’d made it to the edge of Europe.

Back through Sagres and Vila do Bispo, the return took the coast road east, and the drop into Salema went right down to the sea. I stopped at Praia de Salema for a breather, bike propped on the rail above the beach, then paid for it straight away. The climbing on this ride came thickest between Vila do Bispo and Burgau: the road out of Salema kicks up hard before dropping to Boca do Rio, then climbs again past the old fort at Almádena, the steepest pull of the day and the hardest effort I put in.

Burgau earned another stop by the sea, then it was on through Luz and over the last rise before dropping into Lagos, with the coast spread out below. Lagos meant a slow roll along the waterfront, all patterned pavement, palm trees and the marina footbridge, and a 25-minute stop before turning inland for home.